Gulf of Naples

There is nothing new in the fact that the coast of the Campania region (Italy) are , as far as holidays are concerned, one of the best stages for sailing cruise. Traffic is certainly the heaviest, but by choosing accurately dates and times and avoiding week ends, one can enjoy one of the world's best scenery. For our cruise, we shall select only three islands leaving the discovery of the many coastal jewels to a tour by car.

The closest to the main land, and the less known to sailing wanderer, is Procida island which by no means is less attractive then the others, better known, islands. Procida lies in front of Miseno Cape and the channel dividing the island from the mainland and bearing the same Capès name is difficult to negotiate due to the presence of many reefs across it. The biggest of these latter dangers to navigation, named as Torrione reef, is marked by a lighted spar. Marina di Procida, the main town, lies on the northern side of the island and its port is made of a dock , this latter also acting as breakwater.

Extreme care should be exercise when entering the harbor due to the heavy ferry traffic; a marina under construction and almost finished (250 berths are already available) offer possibilities of docking. Completely built with yellow tuff rock and with orange trees scattered everywhere, Procida convey the unspoiled glamour of the old sea towns. The housing conglomerate called the "Palazzata", resultant of a very liberal and randomly executed construction minus a proper building plan, has produced an architectural ensemble typical of the location and not found elsewhere. Inland, in the hart of a boroughs called Terra Murata, a huge parade ground overlooks the Saint Michael abbey rebuilt during the Spanish rule after being destroyed by the Saracens.

Circumnavigating Procida, shelter can be found at the Vivara islet connected to the shore by an artificial isthmus. The islet which seats a natural park, is covered by a thick vegetation and a lookout tower stands at its top. The cove formed by the two islands make for an excellent anchorage; alternatively one can call at Chiaolella harbor where boats with 15 meters LOA can be taken in.

On Ischia island much has been said and written. With an area equal to 47 square kilometers, is the biggest of the Gulf's islands offering many interesting aspects. Inhabited since the pre-roman times, the island was famous for its clay used to carve vases and useful containers and in the third century B.C. suffered of volcanic eruption which left a salt lake in place of the volcano mouth. The lake was to remain separated from the sea until the last century when king Ferdinand the Second ordered to dig an opening obtaining a natural harbor that was christened by the royal yacht "Delfino" escorting more than one hundred boats and giving to Ischia the safest port one can seek. There is room for 200 berths with LOA up to 30 meters with full and efficient services. Above all, the call at Ischia is worth for a visit to the renown thermal baths, last remainder of the island's volcanic origin, and where with a water temperature of 65 degrees C one is washed as well as properly purified and healthily refitted.

Another anchorage is found at the Carta Romana road, close to the Aragonese castle built by Gerone of Syracuse an lava islet and overhanging the sea. The castle was conquered by King Alphonse of Aragona who exploited a newly built bridge to capture it. Since then , this particular place is named Ischia Ponte, the Italian name for bridge. This pristine and charming place, not too distant from the Saint Anne reefs, is a preferred diving site where in water depth no more than ten meters the ruins of Aenaria , a pre- roman hamlet destroyed by a volcanic eruption on 130 B.C., can be inspected. Navigating anti-clockwise. the nearest landing is at Cassamicciola, a place renown since the Middle Age for its healing waters. There is room at this port for 100 boats with LOA up to 60 meters; there is however a draught limitation of 2.5 meters at the dock and a shallow water patch with water depth of about 1 meter at the harbor center. Lacco Ameno and its patron saint, Santa Restituita, whose original building dates back to the year 1000, offers only a finger pier and whose head is used by ferries. There are two new docks but water depth here is between 3 and 1.2 meters as well. Thirty boats with maximum LOA of 15 meters can be moored here. Immediately around Soccorso point the port of Fiorio, with a small church and Mount Apium, 800 meters high, both overlooking it, can be easily reached. While a new port installation is being built, only forty boats not exceeding 40 meters LOA can be accepted her.

Sant' Angelo, sheltered by the homonymous cape and two cliffs, has one 50 meters long pier where about 50 boats with 50 meters maximum LOA can be taken.

However, the true jewel of the Gulf is Capri island whose splendid shape is renown the world over. It was not by pure chance that Emperor Augustus, coming back from Egypt, felt in love with the place, bought and elected it as his favorite home. Tatter Emperor Tiberius brought it to fame giving to the island that particular, slightly transgress atmosphere that has been transmitted to our days by modern tourism. Who has not heard of the Blue Grotto or the incredible cliffs, the Faraglioni, last remnants of what once was a unique and immense grotto? Other highlights of this remarkable island are Villa Jovis and the Solaro mountain, 589 meters high and easily climbed with a seat lift, from where one can enjoy the entire gulf's view. The locally famous cable car will take you from Marina Grande to the equally famous little square where the entire Capri lifestyle is on permanent show. Due to the tourist flow, heavy and steady regardless of the season, the island is not worth visiting in daylight hours: hordes of tourists from everywhere continuously land and wander here. Those lucky enough to have a hotel room booked in advance or own a house there or, better, have their boat moored nearby will better enjoy the island best site. With the last ferry gone to the main land , the island's population stabilize at acceptable levels and, especially in the cold season the entire place is yours together with the romantic paths, the sophisticated restaurants, the juicy ice cream parlors of that unique establishment making mozzarella cheese braids billed with prosciutto and tasty herb, The port is made of a basin protected by two breakwaters and is divided in three sections: the commercial, the tourist and the wet basin itself. The tourist portion can accommodate 350 boats with LOA up to 60 meters and has a water depth of 7 meters. From the Marina Grande entrance and turning anti-clockwise, one reaches the Blue Grotto; the place is easily identified by the numerous rowing boats standing nearby. By calling one of them you can, tide permitting, visit the grotto inside and enjoy a view found nowhere else. After rounding the Arcera Cape and Carena Point the southern island's part is reached. Marina Piccola will offer only a series of small landing piers offering brief and relative shelter to small boats; continuing coastwise one reaches the "Faraglioni" area, ideal for an unforgettable swim if the season is right, followed by a lunch in one of the restaurants behind Tragara Point reachable after a pleasant pram ride. There will be ample time to complete the island's circumnavigation and be back at the Marina Grande moorings, ready to face the intensely passionate Caprìs night life

Pontine Islands

Pontine islands were known to be inhabited since the civilization' onset; Neolithic remnants and first bronze age obsidians were found hare although reliable life traces go back only after the final Roman victory over the Volsces on 338 B.C.

Ponza island is nevertheless remembered as one of the eighteen Roman provinces to remain loyal to the capital during the difficult times following Hannibal's adventure. Emperor Augustus encouraged its residential expansion that later spread to Ventotene island as well. Rome used the two islands as a sort of golden retreat, an exile site indeed, for politically troubling public personalities: Caligola's mother Agrippina died there; her mortal remains were brought back to the imperial capital with full honors, sailing upriver the Tevere on a bireme vessel.

Ventotene harbor, as well as Pilatos' cove, used at Ponza to breed Moray fishes and other rare species, both dug in the tuff rocks, and Chiaia di Luna with its tunnel connecting the village to the beach through impressive cliffs, are all remainder of those days. Madonna point mansion, with its fish pond now nearby the cemetery, is also a remarkable visit spot. The nowadays harbor and surrounding Ponza's area lay-out, were built by Francesco Carpi at the end of the eighteen century, based on a project by Antonio Winspere. This is the starting point for a tour to the archipelago.

After reaching the island from Anzio or Gaeta ports ( one day navigation away ) the biggest problem will be to find a proper berth: Musco dock only offers shelter from western gusts, locally called "Garigliano". Docking is however restricted to an area between the hydrofoil landing and the Navy Yacht Club. The rest of the port area, including the anchorage in the road, is open to the swell from which in case of fresh winds from the west, one is compelled to seek refuge on the opposite island at Chiaia di Luna.

Ponza can be best savored by circumnavigating it. Starting from the harbor and coasting southward along the Donna promontory where the water entrances to the Pilatus' cove are located, the Roman villa can be seen. Further south the Madonna cliffs, the Ulysses' cave and the long Scotti rocky wall are sighted together with Calzone Muto cliff just before the impressive Guardia promontory 280 meters high. Chiaia di Luna is located behind the lower Fieno point. This is a beautiful route safe also for night navigation when riding the west winds one seeks shelter into the bay.

One additional surprise occurs at the bay entrance when one find himself in front of this beautiful beach surrounded by suggestive multicolored cliffs. Coasting further Faraglioni mountain, Feola cove sheltered by a breakwater partially suitable for docking and with 2-4 meters water depth, is reached. After making good the sharp Corte point, the navigation continue into the Water cove, so called after the small port used by the water-tanker supplying the island. The steel pier allowing only head docking is unsafe.

From the following Papa point to the extreme northern island end, the coast line becomes more and more irregular until the strait between Ponza and Gavi islet. The eastern side offers suggestive seascape views till the natural stone arch called "Spaccapolpi". Here two majestic coves separated by the "Faraglioni del Parroco" are reached. They are respectively named Inferno and Core coves. Good shelter from the south-west winds can be found at Frontone cove, behind the homonymous point.

The other archipelago inhabited island is Ventotene, with an old Roman port dug into the tuff rock and surrounded by a picturesque village: a night in Ventotene is an experience anyone sailing the Mediterranean cannot miss.

When lentils and other local plants blossom in springtime and their flavor can be felt miles away sailing downwind at nighttime, the time has arrived to steer for Ventotene and be taken by its ancient charm. If docking is not available at the old harbor ( Nicholas port ) you can now take advantage at the new marina, sheltered to the est by a breakwater.

Santo Stefano island is about a mile away from Ventotene. The island is two kilometers wide, with an old Borbonic penitentiary built on top, has a peculiar turtle shape. A visit is worth although the premise is closed down. Parmarola island considered one of the most beautiful in the Tirrenian sea, lies at about six miles from Ponza's Guardia point. Cliffs and coves with crystal clear waters offer one landing only, which is the harbor cove with a sandy bottom in front of the beach. The only two restaurants in the island provide, in the good season, to the necessities of visitors.

The wildest and pristine of the entire archipelago is without doubt Zanone island, resembling Australia both in shape ( but not size! ) and the rich luxuriant vegetation, a remainder of the forests that were growing in the islands prior to human colonization. Landing and docking is available in the rocky cove in the south of the island. Coming from Ponza, caution must be exercised to avoid rifs and shallow waters, remnants of the linking ridge connecting the island to Ponza.

Sicily

Sicily is certainly the destination for those loving the sun at its zenith, vivid colors and strong tastes, even in middle seasons when boats and facilities availability is larger. Placed at a latitude equal to the Tunisian coast, Sicily offers attractive coasts especially during the summer. A gateway dividing the eastern and western Mediterranean sea, Sicily has always been a land of conquest, up for grab by all those that have historically been present in this area. Sure enough, all of them have left marks and vestiges both on the land and its inhabitants, so proud and conscious of the history they represent.

From the Phoenicians and Greeks who left here some of the most representative monuments of their civilization, to the Romans who made their granary reservoir here, to the Norman who erected here their civilization bulwark, to the Arabs who were just around the corner and saw it as an appropriate wedge for their European expansion, all of them contributed to make of Sicily a "land of mystery and contradiction".

I if you plan envisages chartering a boat, your starting point will, most likely be the Portorosa marina, Sicily's most modern and efficient: 500 berths divided in a series of wet docks complete with dock walls and floating piers. Portorosa is located in the north-east coast, near Milazzo.

While this latter is often congested by the ferries connecting Sicily to the islands, Portorosa is totally dedicated to the tourist traffic and is the obvious starting point for cruises both going west to Palermo and north, to the splendid "seven sisters of the volcano" as the Aeolian island are known.

Set in a picturesque environment, Portorosa is also fitted with a 50 tons gantry crane and a host of logistical-technical services including a medical facility. The next suitable landing will be found at Cefal , reached after coasting the island's northern side. Sicily's most important tourist villages are located here. Cefal new port is called Presidiana and offers a concrete dock with three finger piers with water depth from 0.30 to 4.0 meters. The coast between Cefal and Palermo offer various interesting landings where the typical coastal lifestyle can be tasted. St. Nicholas l' Arena is, for instance, a fishing village where fishermen and the Marina S. Nicola have reserved a wet basin to the boat cruising tourism. Water depth there ranges from 1.5 to 3 meters. You can not also bypass at Santa Flavia Heaven: fishermen activity is worth watching and from there, the ruins of old Solunto can be visited. The harbor has a water depth of up to 5 meters but there is no space reserved to yachting and docking is available as space permits. By contrast, Palermo does not suffer of docking space deficiency. The commercial port itself has several floating piers managed the local Rowing Club, the Italian Naval League and other private organizations. A number of docking facilities are gradually being brought up to the required efficiency. For instance, the Aquasanta haven offers 475 berths exclusively reserved to the yachting activity with a maximum LOA of 50 meters and water depth progressively going to the 12 meters from the 2 meters close inshore. By contrast, the Arenekka facility is only capable of docking boats of smaller dimensions.

Other landings are available at Mondello, at Fossa del Gallo, site of the Motomar shipyard, and lastly, Sferracavallo where boats of 15 meters LOA are accepted. All these places are really charming but should be considered only after a prior visit. All of them will allow a stop and most importantly, a visit to Palermo and its monuments can not be overlooked. Equally compulsory is a call at the Isola delle Femmine, notorious for its numerous tales and the enchanted sea bottom. Between Palermo and Trapani other anchorage, Castellamare del Golfo and San Vito Lo Capo among them, are at hand; but a well sheltered site from where to start the navigation towards the Egadi islands is without a doubt, Marsala where about 100 berths are available to yachting. From here, and provided your boat is of a shallow draught type, a visit is recommended to the S. Pantaleo island and moor at the Mozia ruins, the Phoenician city whose ruins will make for a really archeological interesting visit. Continuing coastwise towards Cape Passero, one arrives at Mazara del Vallo the only canal port in Sicily and where the majority of the fishing fleet has its home port. Space is at premium, only 30 meters of dock face being reserved to yachting, but it may be sufficient to allow a visit to Italy's most lively fishing market. Sciacca as well has a consistent and active fishing fleet: a colorful and choreographic swirl of marine activities. Selinunte and its ruins, located on a rocky hill vertically falling to the sea is a worth visit. Beneath it Marina di Selinunte, a small haven drawing only a couple of meters can be entered by shallow boats or prams. Further south, the only sheltered place, in case of sea conditions worsening, is at Porto Empedocle where Yachting has its reserved moorings at two piers located in the inner harbor, away from the islands ferries congestion. This is the meeting place for those who have crossed the island by land and wish to continue to Linosa and Lampedusa or for that seaborne tourism wishing to continue on to Agrigento and the evocative Temples Valley. Further east, towards the Ionic Sea the coast does not offer much with exception of the coves at Licata and Gela. Turning North towards the Messina Strait, a stop is recommended at the splendid Syracuse Bay. Archimedes' city overflows with Greek and Roman vestiges and the refined masterpieces dating back to the sixth and seventh centuries, all contained in the rocky Ortigia island over which the old city has been built. Ortigia island is naturally connected to the mainland by an isthmus. Syracuse offer two ports to yachting: the main one, Porto Grande has moorings in a 100 meters long dock and the Marmoreo or Little Port where however water depth is spotty and does not exceeds the 3 meters range. An excellent shelter can also be found at Augusta where however, massive industrial installations have spoiled the place of its beauty. Northward, only few scattered private moorings are suggested in the Catania harbor and few additional ones at the characteristic Acitrezza Cove. With favorable weather conditions anchorage is permitted at Naxos Garden, beneath Taormina. Messina as well, with its continuous ferries traffic is not, mooringwise, generous to yachting: Few piers are given to it in spite of the ample harbor. Perhaps the best way to enjoy the Strait is by sailing it and playing with its currents and counter currents.

Tremiti Islands

The pristine beauty of the Termite islands and the coast overlooking them, is an irresistible call to the sea loving tourist and the fact that the area is not particularly crowded even at the holiday season's peak, makes it even more attractive. The distance from the better known northern Adriatic resorts and the paucity of modern infrastructures, only recently enhanced by the construction of the Pescara Marina, has protected this entire area from the mass tourism invasion that year after year, routinely clog the better known northern resorts. Yet, the genuine and sometimes rough natural environment of the Gargano peninsula and the nearby Tremiti islands would, alone, be more than enough to attract a nautical tourism of much larger consistency. Pescara, located at the mouth of the homonymous river, has always been a commercial center with its facilities cast in a channel port and two parallel breakwaters protruding into the sea for 400 meters. The Port Authority has recently detached part of this infrastructure to fill the tourist's needs by setting up a modern and efficient marina whose area is delimited by an additional breakwater linked to the existing southern one and another further south. In addition to the service area, the inner water space is divided into two wet basins, all for yachting use. There are 787 berths of which 80 are reserved to the passing yachts and lengthwise, the facility accepts boats from 5 to 30 meters Loa. Pescara has been traditionally a lively commercial and fishing port sharing with L'Aquila the Abruzzo regional supremacy. This the most appropriate starting point for the cruise which we would prefer to start in late spring or autumn (although the summer high season should not be ruled out) when the weather generated at this latitude yields a comfortable climate.

Heading south, Ortona is the first port to offer shelter although this location is mainly dedicated to the commercial and fishing industry. Yachts will find convenient moorings only at the far end of the southern quay where, nevertheless, 30 meters LOA boats can be easily accommodated. Further south and about 3 miles from the town of Vasto, the small Punta Penna harbor is protected by the eastern and western outer docks almost entirely usable: both have respectively two and one finger piers where maximum 10 meters LOA are accepted. Predominant winds from the North East generate a bothering swell inside this refuge. The interesting medieval town of Termoli is easier to reach. The port, protected by a breakwater tied up to the promontory on which the old town is built, is an ensemble of streets and alleys protected by powerful outer walls built under Frederic the Second rule and of which only the castle remains standing. The southern quay, the shortest and on the middle of which there is a wooden finger pier, is allotted to yachting but LOA should not exceed 20 meters. If starting from the south, the suitable starting point would be Manfredonia, at the foot of Mount St. Angelo. The actual name was given by King Manfredi who had the old Siponto population transferred here after wars and earthquakes destroyed the latter and the advancing marshes made life unsustainable there. Sacked several times by the Turks, Manfredonia has several tourist attractions like the 1680 built cathedral. the town is today a flourishing industrial center and is fenced by old city walls where the castle, whose construction was started by king Manfredi and eventually completed by the Angevins, lies amidst a pine forest.

The best part of the Gargano coast develops here until Vieste: it is an uninterrupted sequence of coves and small promontories topped with old lookout towers overlooking reefs and islets. The entire scenery is breathtaking with whitish cliffs, whose caves host a multitude of seagulls and geese and sinking into clear, deep blue waters. An endless numbers of coves, empty and with unpolluted waters are surrounded by olive trees reaching to the sea. Many of these caves can be reached by sea; light condition inside create incredibly beautiful coloration on the high ceilings and pure waters underneath.

Vieste, a lively fishing and holiday town, lies at the extreme end of the Gargano promontory, between the San Lorenzo beach to the north and the castle to the south. Of very old origins as clearly attested by many archeological findings including Greek pottery and a third century necropolis, Vieste was almost certainly the old Apenestre whose reference can be found on Tolomeus' writings. The old hamlet is characteristic with its white houses and narrow steep alleys and steps. The promontory is topped by the castle from which a superb view can be had. Immediately below, the S. Maria Oreta cathedral was built on the ruins of an old temple of which very few ruins remains. The small port is made out by the fishing facility and the Santa Eufemia refuge an islet providing some sort of shelter. Strong first quadrant winds however, create a dangerous swell that must be borne in mind. Passage between the islet and mainland is dangerous if draught exceeds 1.2 meters or the mast is higher than 12 meters and, in any case, a reef at about 2 meters from the southern S. Lorenzo dock requires extreme care. Yachts with maximum LOA of 15 meters can moor at the three piers purposely reserved to them.

On the northern Gargano coast and piled up on a promontory falling to the sea, lies the small and charming Peschici town with its surrounding walls and low gray houses peaked with oriental style cupolas, all dominated by a small medieval castle. In spite of the Neolithic findings going back to the iron and bronze ages, the town was founded only in the year 970 by Sueripolo, a Slavonian commander. It was owned for a long period by the Tremiti Abbey who had its mainland base here. The small port below is mainly used by fish-boats and island ferries. Yachts can moor at the breakwater inner side on the west, bearing in mind that water depth there does not exceeds the 2 meters. The dock in front of Rodi Garganico is instead partially silted and allows only for short stops in good weather conditions; enough to visit the town at the foot of a promontory and notable for an extended beach protected by a thick and luxuriant vegetation. Founded by the old Rhodians, this town still displays vestiges of its past at the old wall ruins. Throughout the century it was feudal property of various families until 1632 when it became the San Felice Duchy and, after Napoleon fall, hosted Johaquim Murat at a villa called Torretta del Re. Another highlight is the church of the Madonna Libera where a painting, thought to have beached here floating from the East, so the legend says, is displayed. Further inland, two lakes Varano and Lesina, are worth mentioning.

At this point, the Tremiti islands with its luminous splendid waters are only twelve miles away from the mainland. These islands, separated by shallow channels constitute a monolithic archipelago with three major islands: S. Nicola, S. Domino, and Capraia also dubbed as Capperara because of the abundance of capers growing, and several reefs, the bigger ones named the Cretaccio and La Vecchia. Of the entire archipelago, only S. Nicola is inhabited although Neolithic traces were found at S. Domino. Originally knows as Insulae Diomedae after the Homeric hero who is said to have been buried here, they derive the actual name to the old S. Domino, also dubbed Tremitis. The religious and administrative archipelago center has historically been the island of S. Nicola with its Benedictine Abbey that the possession of the island. The ruins of fortifications, towers and wall so well inserted in the flat environment with cliffs falling to the sea, makes for a very interesting visit. However, the best part of the Tremiti islands certainly belong to their natural beauty where the richness of the vegetation intermingles with the clear water creating a pristine atmosphere in tortuous gorges vertically falling to the sea. Tremitìs waters have been subdivided in three areas: one totally reserved where entrance is permitted only by permit for scientific studies or guided tours, another where a general permit entrance is required, and finally the last where a permit must be obtained for fishing only. More complete information can be obtained trough the Harbour Master Office in Manfredonia or by consulting the Pagine Azzurre Pilot Book.

Tuscany

Capraia island, together with its seven belt sisters, surrounding it, has always been a prime target for those seeking the Mediterranean dominance. The Ligurian first, followed by Etruscans, Greeks, Phoenicians, the romans and later the Longobards (when there do not forget to have someone show you the remnants of a warrior spoils displayed at the local museum) the Arabs and Genoese, all ruled there as the islands lies quarterly in the path of their respective geographical expansion. Tuscan republics, grand duchies and city states claimed them later on, intermingled with Spanish, English and French rulings. This includes even Napoleon who tried his hand here and while exiled at Elba, implemented agriculture and trade. Throughout history, these beautiful islands were true seaports and the only drawback today is that they are mainly used as penal colonies and marine parks which deter their potential expansion.

Elba island is the natural center of the archipelago both for its geographical size and its position. Celebrated by Virgil, known by the Greeks as Aethalia and Ilva by latins, Elba island was a preferred roman holiday resort who built here many splendid villas. The island was also a major source of mineral ores, iron especially.

Characteristic and well known to all here is Calamita point, where magnetic compasses are deviated when passing nearby, consistently altering the course. Elbàs size is too big to fully convey its insular nature and too small as to obliterate the nearness to the Italian coast. Indeed only six miles of water stretch separate the island from the mainland: enough to impose interminably long cues at the ferry terminal to the would be island's visitors. To the mariners riding fast motorboats it is only a short ride only few hours to those opting for sail, departing from the several nearby mainland marinas. Coasting Cerboli and Palmarola, down to the Piombino channel and challenging gusts and strong currents under sail is a unique experience as far as navigational skills go, this area is as demanding as the Messina strait. Thereafter, the choice is either to steer for the Porto Azzurro fjord or the cozy Portoferraio road. Elba island develops 147 kilometers of seacoasts and an area of 224 square kilometers. The height above sea level is determined by the constantly cloud capped Capanne mountain, 1018 meters high, conveying the impression of a true Alpine peak.

An holiday destination by definition, especially preferred by the Nordic tourist flow heading for the Tyrrenian coast, Elba island offer a multiple variety of landings although the ports worth of this name are only five. The principal and most important of them is Portoferraio with a seaport enclosed by a breakwater and, to the west, by three piers mainly dedicated to the commercial activity. Sea born holiday traffic is permitted to moor at the Mazzini dock on the left hand of the entrance. This area is at the center of the town and is served with water, electricity and ice making machines. Clockwise navigation will lead to the northwest island's corner where, sheltered by Della Vita cape, lies Cavo whose port is made of a dog leg dock 200 meters long and a finger pier 50 meters long. The maximum permitted draught is 2.5 meters and berthing is permitted both at the main dock and at the local sailing club piers. Further south you will find Rio marina with a breakwater fitted with cleats and mooring rings: boats can lay over here but attention should be paid to northeasterlies and easterlies that can be dangerous at times. The nearby Porto Azzurro fjord makes it easy to seek shelter; the proper port is located on its right hand side with the fortress of Porto Longone overlooking it. This massive star shaped construction built by Garcia of Toledo under king Philip the Third of Spain is now used as a penitentiary. The port is made of a dock wall with three piers all fitted with bitts and cleats. It is well protected by the fjord configuration but wind from the fourth quadrant funneling through the mountains could be bothering.

After rounding Ripalti point and clearing Calamita point with its magnetic anomalies, some shelter can be found at Stella gulf, but the real safe anchorage on this southern part of the island is only offered at Marina di Campo. A "U" shaped mooring facility made out by two piers and a dockwall provide moorings here. Shelter is found only within these structures, but there as well, winds from the second quadrant will be felt. After making good the small Fetovaia peninsula, at whose bottom one can find one of the best island's beaches, and coasting Polveraia point, continuing northward, one reaches the port of Marciana Marina surrounded by the Medici tower (or Saracen tower as it is known here); this small port is protected by a breakwater, hammer shaped at the head, and whose inner side is used as quay. A southern smaller breakwater engulfs various permanently occupied floating piers owned by the local sailing club. Marciana Marina is the best starting point for those heading to Capraia island, 25 miles away. The elliptical shaped volcanic island is 8 kilometers long and develops a 16 miles coastal perimeter. The contour is mountainous with Monte Castello, the higher, standing out at 447 meters. The western side is very steep and falls to the sea; a wide variety of birds nest here, among them a rare seagull species while the caves at sea level host some common seals. The island was known to the Greeks and Romans and by the fourth century it gave refuge to the Chernobites who were later replaced by the Saracens. They were later followed by the Genoese and the Kingdom of Sardinia. Since 1872 part of the island hosts a penal farm; the rest is open to tourism and visitors. This small haven is encompassed by two docks: this is where you start the island tour, a must for the pleasant walk amidst luxuriant vegetation and the possibility of exceptional bird watching. Unfortunately, Gorgona island with its mountain peaks, its steep cliffs an the eastern side and slopes, green and thick with pine trees on the other side, is not open to visitors as it is entirely taken by a penal colony. The port with rocky and shallow bottom is not suitable for large size yachts and the facility can only be used in emergency. The same can be said for Pianosa, another archipelago island. Known to the Romans as Planasia, the name stands for its flat configuration with a maximum 27 meters height above sea level. Inhabited since the Neolithic age, Pianosa was a Roman possession followed by the Pisan and Genoese republic, with a Turkish intermission, only to return to the Tuscan grand duchy and finally destined to its actual penal colony status. Its geographical position and shape generate a very hot and dry climate. Its port is also forbidden to the tourism except for emergencies (a 1500 meters exclusion zone from shore is enforced) and consists of a natural cove closed to the southeast by a 50 meters long finger pier and called St. John cove. The splendidly mysterious Montecristo island is equally excluded from tourism due, this time, to the existence there of a natural marine park. It is a solid granite peaking with three mountains of which the higher , 645 meters, is the Fortress mountain. Inaccessible from all sides, with its steep almost vertical cliffs, the island has only one landing for small crafts at Cala Maestra. Few small coves could be also used save for the difficulty of making fast ashore and the cliffs sinking down to very deep waters. Landing prohibition is anyway strictly enforced due to the park regulations. Luckily for the sailing tourist, the two remaining splendid islands, Giannutri and Giglio, are open albeit partially, to visitors.

Giglio is the second most important, for extension and population, of the Tuscan islands belt, with a length of almost 9 kilometers and a population of 1800. It is almost completely mountainous with the Poggio della Pagana, the highest at 498 meters. On the broken and indented coast several coves offer refuge, namely the Arenella, Giglio Porto and Canelle on the east coast and Campese with its wide beach to the north west. Prehistorically inhabited and later taken by the Etruscans, the island was the personal feud of the Domitian Enobarbi family, whose villàs ruins can be seen nearby the harbor. The waters surrounding this island saw the fleet of emperor Frederick the Second clashing and destroying the Genoese who were taking the church high priests to Rome to participate to a council called by Pope Gregory the ninth against the emperor. The battle took place an May 3rd, 1241. Pisan and Florentine rules followed and after a brief papal parenthesis, the Tuscan grand duchy took it over.

Safe moorings, notwithstanding the crowded port and the constant ferry traffic, are found at Giglio Porto. With predominant winds blowing from the first quadrant, it has two docks where mooring is permitted only on the eastern one or anchor in the area immediately in front of it. Campese, on the other hand, offer a well sheltered cove from southern winds. A small quay allows for inflatable crafts mooring only.

Horseshoe shaped, Giannutri has a natural shelter at Spalmatoi cove, Low flat and Sparsely cultivated, the island was inhabited after the Enobarbi and the Romans, first by pirates and patter by Gualtiero Adami, a kind of Mediterranean Robinson Crusoe, who for forty years lived in solitude and started a sort of agricultural project. Spalmatoi cove offers good shelter within its spacious gulf with two quays . Opposite the island, the attractive but very narrow Cala Maestra cove with some mooring buoys and dead men, also offers refuge.

The Tuscan island belt thus result in a valid albeit , sometimes demanding nautical test for those sailing this area, best enjoyed during the middle season and can, at the same time, provide a relaxing and rewarding vacation.

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